The Via Appia Antica: “All roads lead to Rome”, it’s said. Take a walk on the first of them THE QUEEN OF THE LONG ROADS

Raphael and Marguerita Luti: Is this famous painting their secret wedding celebration? A PEARL FOR THE BAKER'S DAUGHTER

How Pasquino and five other ancient statues were used by Romans to satirize their rulers WHEN THE STATUES SPOKE

The Circus Maximus hosted chariot races for a millennium; the Circus of Maxentius, only once A DAY AT THE RACES

John Keats died young. His tombstone does not even mention his name. And yet FAMOUS LONG AGO

You can jog, snooze, walk your dog, or picnic here, beneath the aqueducts' stony arches MARCHING ARCHES

Bernini’s baroque works are everywhere in Rome. Try to ignore them. I dare you! AVOIDING BERNINI IN ROME

Nasoni: Rome’s ubiquitous "Big Nose" water fountains. Handy, but you have to know the secret RUNNING NOSES

This bronze pugilist is more than 2000 years old, but so realistic you can feel his pain THE BOXER

Climb Monte Testaccio, a hill made entirely of pottery pieces, and consider the history of olive oil ON THE HILL OF SHARDS

Pauline Bonaparte posed semi-nude as Venus for the sculptor Antonio Canova. A scandal worth seeing! VENUS VICTORIOUS

Santa Sabina church on the Aventine Hill, with its famous cypress door, and St. Dominic's orange grove ORANGE TREES AND CYPRESS WOOD

How a disused Roman power plant became a museum of ancient art GODS AMONG THE MACHINES

The Battle at Rome’s Milvian Bridge in 312 AD changed the entire western world BRIDGING TIME

Pietro Canonica’s museum in Villa Borghese is rarely crowded, but he was once a star FAME

Why is the great “Altar of the Fatherland” in Rome rudely called “The Typewriter?” ZANARDELLI'S FOLLY

A visit to the Roman apartment of Giorgio de Chirico, the Godfather of Surrealism … IN THE RIDDLER'S HOUSE

For centuries, locals marveled at the dark forms of two great ships in the depths of Lake Nemi … THE LOST SHIPS OF NEMI

Beware! A visit to Rome’s Quartiere Coppedè is a guilty architectural pleasure! SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

As the Roman Empire fell, an elegant marble altar disappeared from the "Field of Mars" THE ALTAR OF PEACE

Porta San Sebastiano houses the Museum of the Walls inside its stony watchtower. Free! IF WALLS COULD TALK